Pre-killed rodents are always best, whether they are frozen/thawed or freshly killed, because live rodents may harm your boa. If you purchase one that is eating live rodents, it will often take frozen/thawed prey that is presented from a pair of tongs. Most boa constrictors available as pets will be eating frozen/thawed prey. ![]() Once boas near adulthood, they will thrive while being fed every 10 to 14 days. ![]() Excessive feeding may lead to regurgitation, improper growth, and even premature death. Boas 2 years old and younger should be fed one appropriately sized rodent every seven to 10 days. Be sure you buy your rodents from a good source to prevent disease and mites. They need no additional food or supplementation. Pet boa constrictors should be fed only quality mice or rats. Adding air holes can actually compromise the container’s ability to retain heat.An established boa will handle a meal resulting in a small bulge just fine. Most containers are not completely air tight, and unless your snake will be in the container for several hours they will not need extra air holes. Reptiles have a relatively slow metabolic rate compared to mammals, meaning that their oxygen needs are much lower. Regardless of if you use a heating device or what you use, once you and your pet arrive in the exam room we can provide an electric heating pad to make sure that your pet stays comfortable. If you’re using a thermotherapeutic bag, be sure to “jiggle” it around while testing as they can have an internal “hot spot” from being warmed in the microwave. Another “rule of thumb” is to test the heating device against your skin: If it feels so warm that you cannot hold it against your bare arm for more than 60 seconds, then it is too warm for your pet snake. While many reptile species can easily tolerate temperatures warmer than this in the wild or in their home enclosure, remember that they will be stuck in an enclosed space and cannot move away if they feel too warm. We recommend using an infrared thermometre (“temperature gun”) to ensure that the heating device is no warmer than 30 ☌ (86 ☏). It is critical that you test the temperature of any heating device before using it for travel with your pet. Overheating can cause hyperthermia and death within minutes. Our preferred heat sources include either a rubber hot water bottle, or a thermotherapeutic compress (such as the Magic Bag®), that can be placed either inside the plastic tote underneath your snake, or outside the container if it’s too small. It depends! Since we have such varied temperatures throughout the seasons here in Nova Scotia, we recommend adding a heat source when the temperature outside is below 18-20 ☌ (64-68 ☏). A large towel or blanket lining the tote, with a second towel or blanket on top of the snake, help provide extra security during travel.ĭoes my snake need a heat source while I travel? Extra “locks” can be added along the sides of the lid using large binder clips. Very large snakes can be comfortably transported in large storage totes, preferably those with lockable tops. This Boa Constrictor is approximately 1.5 m (5 ft) long and fits comfortably inside a medium-sized tote. Larger snakes can be secured in one to two pillowcases, and then transported in a lock-top plastic tote. This juvenile Cornsnake is quite comfortable in a small storage container, either using a snake bag or a small hand towel. A small cloth snake bag or small towel can be used to make the snake feel more secure. ![]() Very small snakes can be transported using a small lock-top plastic container, such as the one pictured here. Appropriately-sized pillow cases or handmade snake bags work very well! The second “barrier” is ideally a plastic container, preferably one with locking latches for extra security. ![]() Generally, two layers of security are recommended to bring any reptile pet to the vet. Here are a few things that you can do to make your limbless lovely’s trip more secure. Transporting your pet to the vet safely is important for any patient, including snakes.
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